Full fashioned stocking and method of producing same



Jan. 25, 1944. J. A. GOODMAN FULL FASHIONED 5 5 Sheets-Sheet Filed May24, 1946 n f m r WW r n \Z I. 1,IIII

awucm a. /7. GaooM/I/V,

Jan. 25, 1944. J. A. GOODMAN 2,340,266

FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 24, 19405 Sheets-Sheet 2 w 1 wa/Yvtom 4. 4. GoooM/M EM W,

Jan. 25, 1944. A. G MAN 2,340,266

FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 24, 19405 Shet-Sheet 3 Jan. 25, 1944. J GOODMAN 2,340,266

FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 24, 194)5 Sheets-Sheet 4 )3 w ,C ii giip W Qi IED 1 III f I 2; Miili F ZMQW M AJ. A. GOODMAN 2,340,266 FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCINGSAME Jan. 25, 1944}.

Filed May 24, 1940 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 a. n. GOOD/181V;

Patented Jan. 25, 1944 FULL FASHIONED STO OF PRODU Jacob A. Goodman,

CKING AND METHOD Cl'NG SAME Indianapolis, Ind., assig-nor to NationalHosiery Mills, Inc., a corporation of India Application May 24, 1940,Serial No. 337,098

29 Claims.

This invention relates to full fashioned stocklugs, and has particularreference to improving the fashioning thereof so that the same willcorrectly fit in the heel and adjoining areas.

As one object of the invention, it is proposed to so construct a fullfashioned stocking knit in a flat blank that it will have a correctshape through the employment of certain fashioning operationsparticularly suited to accomplish this end.

A further object of the invention is to provide a full fashionedstocking which is not only shaped correctly but in which specialfeatures are employed to control and adjust the extent and degree offabric stretch in the heel and adjoining stocking areas so that thestocking may conform smoothly to the human ankle, instep and heel.

The shaping of the stocking through fashioning is accomplished in such amanner that the natural elasticity of the knitted fabric is suitablydirected in relation to the changing contour and diameter of the humanfoot. A heel pocket is formed which is stretchable both vertically andtransversely so that'thesame will adjust itself to the shape of thehuman heel. The fabric across the high instep arch and adjoining areaswill be relieved of undue stretch and concentration of strain at localpoints therein, and the texture of the fabric will be substantiallyuniform throughout. At certain fabric areas the stretch is adjusted soas to be'less and/or in a difierent direction than in adjoining areasfor reasons to be explained.

A further important object of the invention is to provide a single-unitstocking which will fit correctly in the heel. and adjoining areas, andovercome the objections to this type of stocking heretofore existing.According to the invention, a stocking may be formed with the leg, footand heel areas in one blank on a single machine with continuous selvageedges extending from top to toe, which may besecured in an uninterruptedseam. Because of novel features of fashioning,

the completed stocking will correctly fit the foot.

In single unit stockings heretofore proposed wherein the heel was formedby addingfabric at the sides of the stocking blank, the heel pocket inthe finished article has not been of suitable be so shaped as to sizeand shape, and due to the technique employed in formingthe heel theknitted fabric in such area lacked elasticity. The heel pocket couldtherefore not accommodate itself to the shape of the ball of the heel,and because .0: in-

pocket that the circumferential stretch in such area will be less thanin the heel pocket area,

.with the result that while the heel pocket is free to adjust itself tothe shape of the natural heel, the fabric beneath the instep arch andaround the corresponding upper portion of the arch of small diameterwill cling to the foot and prevent the heel pocket from slidingrearwardly and upwardly. v

Anchorage at the instep through lessening of the stretchability of thefabric in this area as compared with the heel fabric is accomplished intwo novel ways. First, the instep fabric, is fashioned in a novel mannerhereafter explained. Second the sole fabric beginning at a pointforwardly of the heel, at or about the smallest portion of the insteparch, and continuing, if desired, forwardly to the stocking toe, is knitwith a tighter stitch than the heel fabric. While both of these featuresserve to reduce the circumferential stretch around the forward part ofthe instepxas compared with the line around the heel and the high insteparch, their effects are additive. Therefore, while it is possible tosecure satisfactory results by using one or the other of the featuresalone, it is found that best results are secured by utilizing the twofeatures together in the same stocking.

to a large degree the tendency of the heel fabric sliding downwardly andforwardly.

Two different methods of fashioning .are pos sible to shape a knittedstocking blank. The transfer method is commonly employed, according towhich groups of marginal loops at the sides of the blank at selectedcourses are shifted laterally, either inwardly or outwardly according towhether narrowing or widening is desired. By reason of the fact that theknitted loops are stretched through the transfer operation, the fabricis tighter along the transfer areas, and the tightness of the fabric isgreater where there is an outward transfer for widening than where thetransfer is inwardly for narrowing. For the latter reason there areserious practical objections and limitations to the use of a transfermethod for widening. It has been found impractical to widen by transfermore than to the extent of one loop at one edge of any course, whereasin many cases it is important to be able to add two loops per course atone edge of the stocking blank in order that the blank may be widenedrapidly and to the extent necessary to insure proper shaping. Even wherein widening the transfer is effected by only one loop at a time, thefabric is extremely tight across the back of the heel, and, besidesconsequently resulting in undue stretching and straining of the fabricarea across the front of the instep, creates strain and frequent rupturein the heel area, particularly in the region of the seam, under thewalewise tension imparted by the garter pull at the top of the stockingand by the bending of the foot in walking.

It is to be further pointed out that the transfer method results in aninclination of the marginal portions of the courses which aretransferred relative to other portions of the courses, as will beevident from the fact that the wales in the transferred areas always runparallel to the marginal edge and meet the wales in the untransferredareas at an angle along a line of transfer marks at the inner boundaryof the transferred marginal portions. Hence, the direction 'of stretch,as well as the extent of stretch, will be different in the transferredportions than in the areas of the fabric inwardly thereof. For somepurposes, as below pointed out, advantage may be taken of this fact,whereas it is found that for purposes of widening, particularly in theupper portion of the stocking heel, it is disadvantageous. Also, in thecase of widening, the row of transfer marks takes the form of a line ofopenings which are not only unsightly but constitute strain points atwhich ruptures of the fabric are likely to occur.

and prevent min the widened areas. Even where complicated knittingmachine equipment is employed to widen by more'than one loop at a timeandproduce a selvage edge, the manner of locking the marginal knittedloops, either with or without the employment of tuck stitches, is suchthat, as in the case of widening with loop transfer, the fabric textureis rendered tight and relatively inelastic along the edge. However, aprocess of widening withoutloop transfer which permits adding one, two,or more edge loops, with the production of an elastic selvage edge area,and which may be carried out on a conventional legger type fullfashioned hosiery machine, has recently been developed, which I findentirely suitable for widening the heel fabric in a full fashionedstocking, such development being described and claimed in Benjamin F.Somers Patent No. 2,230,986, granted February 4, 1941.

, So far as I am aware, no practical process of narrowing merely bydropping loops has been developed which will produce a selvage edgealong the narrowed fabric area,- and while it is conceiv- Fashioning byadding edge loops to widen, also by dropping edge loops to narrow, mayor may not tighten the texture of the knitted fabric along the edge, alldepending on how the knitting is carried out in forming and securingagainst running the knitted loops alongthe edge.

Such method of fashioning does not change the direction of the coursesand wales along the margins of the stocking blank. The courses and waleswill have an inclination to the edges along the widened area. Thedirection of maximum stretch of the fabric in relation to the fabricedge may therefore be controlled and varied according to whether thewidening is such as to cause the edge to extend at a sharp angle or at agradual angle to the knitted Wales. The greater the number of loopsadded at the edge of the stocking blank per course, and/or the greaterthe course frequency of widening, the greater will be the inclination ofthe edges of the widened fabric to the wales thereof.

There are, however, practical problems in the way of widening withoutloop transfer. Some methods require complicated knitting machineequipment, and where this is not the case, the known methods heretoforeproposed are limited to widening by the addition of a single loop at oneedge per course, or fail to produce a locked selvage edge such as isnecessary to facilitate seaming able that such a procedure, ifdeveloped, might be employed in a stocking together with variousfeatures of fashioning hereinafter specifically explained, I find thatnarrowing by loop transfer, because it can affect, and be employed tovary, the direction of stretch and the extent f stretch in the narrowedareas of the stocking, is well suited to present purposes. As in thecase of the widening, the character of narrowing may be changed atdifferent intervals to produce certain desired effects.

By utilizing and varying the fashioning with due regard to the effectsthereof in astocking, with reference to shape and also elasticity, Ihave succeeded in developing a stocking wherein the heel portion andadjoining portions are correctly shaped, and wherein the elasticity ofthe fabric is so correlated with the shape that the stocking fitscorrectly without concentration of strain in limited fabric areas suchas is usually encountered in known stockings, as, for example, acrossthe top of the instep arch and at the sides of the heel wherein thewales are unduly stretched and spread apart.

While certain individual features forming a part of the invention are ofgeneral utility in full fashioned stocking manufacture, the main aim ofthe invention is to provide a correctly fitting single unit stockingwherein the heel is formed in one unit with the foot and leg portions.This is accomplished during the course of knitting the stocking blank bywidening in a novel manner the fabric at the upper, or back, heel areaabove the point of maximum width, measured from the apex of the heelaround the high front portion of the instep arch, followed by thenarrowing of the fabric in a novel manner to form the underside of theheel, and preferably with further novel narrowing beyond the bottom ofthe heel in the instep area of reduced diameter.

The following are the principal characterizing features of a fullfashioned single unit stocking in accordance with the invention:

1. The ankle portion above the heel is made narrower than customary toproperly conform to V 2,840,266 3. Widening of the heel is accomplishedwith-.

out-loop transfer by the addition of marginal edge loops, preferably twoat a time, and the fashioning is graduated by varying the coursefrequency of widening so that the edges along the back heel portionshave a concave shape.

4. The widened fabric at the back of the heel, at and inwardly of theselvage edges, is elastic not only coursewise but lengthwise of the rearseam which has a general direction at a bias to the courses and wales.Further, the direction of the knitted wales is adjusted so that thefabric will stretch in suitable directions in relation to the.

changing surface contour and diameter around the upper portion of theinstep and the back of the heel.

5. The narrowing at the underside of the heel is accomplished by twoloops at a time, tic crosswise of the the stocking heel will shape ofthe human fabric relieve the adjoining areas around the wide portion ofthe instep of undue strain.

6. The instep fabric forwardly of the heel is also narrowed by the looptransfer method, preferably to approximately the highest point of theinstep arch beneath the foot. By changing the number of loopstransferred in progressive courses of the instep so that the lines offashioning marks extend at an inclination to the bottom seam, the instepfabric will be transversely than the fabric beneath the heel.Preferably, the lines of fashioning in the instep will taper in aforward direction towards the seam as it is found that with such anarrangement the elasticity beneath the instep arch of the foot willgradually decrease in a forward direction so as to be. at a minimum inthe vicinity of the highest point of the sole arch.

' 7. The sole fabric forward of the heel is knit with a tighter stitchthan the heelfabric. In

and the fabric is highly elasbottom of the heel, so that more readilyconform to the some cases the tighter knit fabric will be com-' mencedat the completion of the instep narrowing. In other instances thetighter fabric will be commenced just forwardly of the heel'at thebeginning of the sole instep arch. This latter arrangement isparticularly desirable where the instep fashioning is not taperedinwardly as above explained.

8. The heel and foot sole fabric wil1 both be reinforced, but preferablythe heel will be formed with more heavily reinforced fabric than thefoot sole. Since the heel fabric should be readily stretchable in anyevent to conform to the shaping of the human heel it must be knit with alooser stitch than the foot sole fabric, where tightness is desired, andthe relative stretchability of the. heel and sole will be maintainedwhere the respective "areas comprise reinforced fabric of differentweight. Because the stretchability of knitted fabric normally tends todecrease as the extent of reinforcement thereof increases, when heavyreinforced fabric is employed in the with a comparatively loose stitchwhile the sole fabric will be knit with a relatively tight stitch, andaccordingly the heavier reinforced fabric of the heel will have agreater degree of elasticity than the lighter reinforced fabric of thefoot sole at and/or forwardly of the foot sole arch. The above and otherfeatures of the invention will be understood by reference to adescription loop transfer, preferably by heel and the bottom heelrendered less stretchable of preferred embodiments thereof illustratedin the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a flat full fashioned stocking blankembodying the various features of the invention and made as a singleunit.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged diagrammatic view of one-side of the heel sectionas shown in 1, and Figs. 2 and '2 are similar views showing severalmodifications. a

Fig. 3 is. a diagrammatic view of the knitted fabric in the upper' heelportion with the addition of two loops at course intervals along theedges according to a preferred method of widenin a 1 Fig. 4v is adiagrammatic view of the knitted fabric with narrowing by transfer ortwo loops at a time in selected courses along marginal areas as employedin the lower heel and instep areas.

Fig. ,5 is a diagrammatic side view of the heel and adjoining areas ofthe completed stocking made from a fashioned blank as in Fig. 1, arrowsbeing shown therein to show the direction of maximum stretch atdifferent points.

, obtain adequate width The calf fashionings 24 Fig. 6 is a perspectiveview showing the same area of the stocking when on the foot.

Fig. 7 is a bottom plan view showing the underside of the heel andinstep, arrows being applied to indicate the direction of maximumstretch at different points, and Fig. 8 is a similar view looking fromthe back of the heel.

Fig. 9 is a view corresponding to Fig. 2 and illustrating one preferredarrangement for reinforcing the heel fabric, and Fig. 10 is adiagrammatic view of the knitted fabric, as in Fig. 3, in the widenedarea of the heel with reinforcing according to Fig. 9. y

Figs. 11 and 12 are views in the flat blank and from the side aftercompletion, respectively, of a fashioned heel as in Fig. 1 showing onepreferred arrangement for reinforcing the heel, and Figs. 13 and 14, 15and 16, 1'7 and 18 are similar views showing modified arrangements forreinforcing.

The illustrative stocking shown in Fig. 1 and embodiment of theinvention is formed as a flat blank to include a top portion 20, legportion 22, and calf portion 23. which begin at AA are carried down toB'B to provide between 3+3 and CC an ankle portion 25 which issuificiently narrow to fit the relatively small diameter of the humanankle.

In conventional full fashioned stockings the ankle portion is ordinarilymade unduly large in diameter in order to obtain a blank of adequatearound the area of large diameter across the apex of the heel and thehigh instep arch. Because of the manner of forming the heel according tothe present invention the ankle portion, 25 may be made as narrow asdesired, by regulating the number and course frequency of narrowingfashionings 24 in the calf, and still across the heel and instep. I

The fashioning of the heel sections 26 begins at CC and consists inwidening the blank through a series of widenings W down to D-D, andafter knitting a series of courses between D-D and E-E withoutfashioning, the heel is completed by a series of. narrowings from E-E toF-F, thus forming the bottom heel portions. Where the heel sections areof a high splice type, the beginning fashioning line CC will ordinarilybe located a short distance below the upper extremity of the highsplice. The fashioning is continued into the instep 21 by furthernarrowings between F-F to G-G. Thereafter the foot portion 28 is knit,including a toe 29 fashioned either by single narrowings or, as shown,by double narrowings 30.

The heel sections 26 are widened without transfer of loops for reasonspreviously explained, merely through the addition of edge loops atrecurrent courses. The method of widening should be such as not only toproduce a selvage edge but to render the fabric more or less elasticlengthwise of the edge and in a transverse direction. One form ofwidening stitch which I have found produces elastic edges suitable forpresent purposes is illustrated in Fig. 3, the same being accomplishedby widening in selected courses at opposite edges of the stocking blankthrough lengthening the traverse of the yarn carrier on a flat knittingmachine during the laying of selected courses before the needles havedescended by the extent of preferably two needles. Such method ofwidening may be carried out on conventional full fashioned leggermachines operating under both the single carrier and ringless i threecarrier systems, as more fully pointed out and claimed in the aforesaidSomers Patent No. 2,230,986. Regular forms of sinkers, dividers andknockover bits may be employed. The use of hooked knockover bits shouldbe avoided.

Inasmuch as the human heel at the back is concave adjacent the ankle andconvex adjacent the heel apex, the formation of the heel sectionsbetween C and D is graduated. The course frequency of fashionings isvaried as knitting progresses not only so as to accomplish this end, butto gradually change the angular relation between the edges and thedirection of wales so that the direction of stretch in the widened partof the heel will be changed to conform to changes in shape and diameterof the human foot.

The total number of wales added in the widening operation between C andD will in part depend on the width of the ankle. The narrower the anklethe greater the number of-widening operations necessary to obtainadequate width of the stocking blank in the area between D-D and E-E inFig. 1. For example, between thirty-six and fifty wales may be desirablyadded in the heel at each side, and this will necessitate from eighteento twenty-five widening steps if two loops are added at forty-two walesgive very good results.

As just pointed out, the course frequency of widening desirably isvaried. The first area of widening will begin at the upper part of theheel section, where the back of the ankle starts to curve outwardly,near the upper end of the usual high splice. This area will be followedby a second area with more abrupt widening, and preferably before theapex is reached there will be a third area with gradual widening whichmay be more gradual than the first widening. In explanation of thesepoints, reference is made to Fig. 2. The first gradual widening iscarried out between C and H, which produces a slight inclination of theedge. The widening W' may consist, for example, of six widening steps atfive courseintervals, each adding two edge loops at each edge. Between Hand I the widening is more abrupt because of the rapidly increasingdiameter of the foot in a downward direction due to the rearward flareof the heel and the height of the instep arch. The fashioning in area Wmay consist, for example, of nine wideneach step. About forty or ingsteps with the addition of two edge loops at each edge at intervals ofthree courses.

To avoid a sharp corner at D such as might occur if the abrupt wideningwould carry to such point, it is desirable to add further widenings atless frequent intervals than in areas W and W so that the edge between Iand D will be less inclined than between H and I and between C and H. Itmay be found sufiicient to add one widening at J and a second one at Din the area W at intervals of ten courses. each widening adding twoloops at each edge.

After the point D is reached an apex area X of straight courses is knitdown to E, say about twenty-seven courses, and thereafter the stockingblank is reduced in width at each side to form the bottom of the heel.Narrowing between E and F in area N is accomplished through looptransfer, preferably by two loops at a time in selected courses.

As far as shaping is concerned, it is immaterial whether the looptransfer operation be carried out in a narrow or wide group of loopsalong the underedge of the heel between E and F. It has been found,however, that if the loop transfer be carried out only in a narrowmarginal area, the resulting heel is unduly tight and the fabric acrossthe instep arch is strained and unsightly in appearance. This diflicultyis overcome by carrying out the heel narrowing in wide marginal areasbetween thirty and forty wales wide, and preferably about thirty-fivewales. The

fashioning line KL will be located outwardly from the edge seam in thecompleted stocking so as to be positioned near the side margins of thebottom of the human heel. The fabric courses in the fashioned area runat right angles to the edge seam, and by thus making the area wide themajor bottom area of the stocking heel will be highly stretchablecrosswise of the bottom of the heel. The manner of narrowing by transferof marginal loops in selected courses to an extent of two loops inwardlyis illustrated in Fig. 4 and need not be described in detail since it iswell known to those skilled in the art.

As shown in Fig. 2*, the narrowing in area N of the heel is carried outby transferring inwardly the same large number of marginal loops in eachof a series of selected courses so that the line of fashioning marksbetween points K and L will extend parallel to the edge E, parallel tothe wales therein, and meet the wales inwardly of the fashioned area atan angle. Preferably, there will be about fourteen narrowing steps inarea N, each narrowing the stocking blank by two wales. The narrowingsteps may occur at equal intervals of about four courses, or if desiredthe course frequency of narrowing may be graduated as in the case ofwidening in the upper portion of the heel.

The heel should not be narrowed too abruptly because of the considerablecircumference around the foot on a line passing around the underside ofthe heel and across the instep arch. At the same time, because of theconcave shape of the foot beneath the instep arch just forwardly of theheel, the stocking blank must be narrowed sufficiently to properly fitat the latter area and provide a foot portion which is sufficientlysmall in diameter. Accordingly, the narrowing of the heel in area N islimited so as not to make the stocking blank too narrow at F-F in Fig.1, and the narrowing is carried on into the instep area 21 between F-Fand G-G.

As will be seen in Fig. 2 the fashioning in the instep area N is not thesame as in the bottom heelarea N. The instep narrowing is so arrangedthat there will be less elasticity crosswise beneath the instep thancrosswise at the bottom of the heel rearwardly thereof so that thestocking will fit tightly beneath the under-- side of the instep archand around the corresponding top portion of the arch and exercise abinding action which will prevent the relatively elastic heel fromsliding rearwardly of the foot.

This end is attained by narrowing along the instep sole area at eachside of the blank by the loop transfer method. The number of loops isprogressively changed so thatthe fashioned areas in the instep aredefinedby fashioning lines which are inclined to the bottom seam joiningthe edges of the fabric. It is preferable that the fashioned instepareas should progressively diminish in width in a forward direction soas to be narrower at their forward end than at their rear end, and insuch case the rear portion of the instep fashioned areas may be sopropor-. tioned that the fashioning lines defining the same meet theforward ends of the fashioning lines which define the fashioned heelareas. Thus, as shown in Fig. 2 theline of instep fashioning marks LMforms an angular continuation of the heel fashioning line KL, butwhereas line KL throughout its length is widely spaced from, andpreferably parallel to, edge FG, instep fashioning line LM tapers in aforward direction towards edge FG. Through this arrangement the line offashioning marks LM, defining the boundary between the instep fashionedarea and the fabric area inwardly thereof extends at a bias across thewales in the fashioned area, thereby graduating and restricting thestretch between transverse lines LF and MG and rendering the fabric insuch area less elastic than in the heel area between transverse lines REand LF. A further important effect is obtained by'the taperingarrangement of the instep fashioning lines in that the fabric inwardlyof the instep fashioning lines has the wales inclined to the fabricedges so that the coursewise direction of maxi- 4 mum stretch therein isinclined rearwardly and enables such fabric to stretch cooperativelywith the heel, all as will be more fully understood by' reference toFigs. 5, 6 and 7. It is found in actual practice that the inclinedarrangement of the fashioning lines in the instep area provides a markeddifierence in degree of elasticity in the underside of the instep,particularly at the forward portion thereof, as compared with the heel,and that whereas the elastic so as to be adapted to conform itself tothe shape of the natural heel, the instep fabric fits tightly with abinding action around the instep sole arch. The elasticity of the fabricin a direction cross-wise of the seam will be at a maximum in the regionof the heel and the rear of the instep arch where the opposingfashioning lines are spaced most widely, and such cross-wise elasticitywill decrease gradually beneath the instep, as the fashioning 1y towardsthe seam to a minimum in the region heel pocket is relatively linesconverge forwardcourses. However. in s me cases the course frequency ofnarrowing in the instep may be the same as or grea'terthan in the heel.In general the course frequency of narrowing in the instep will dependon the weight and inherent stretchability of the fabric employed, and

factors will also be taken into account in determining the' relative andinstep fashioning areas. Itwi1l be understood, of course, that thecourse frequency of narrowing is not an important factor in eifectingtapering of the instep marginal fashioning areas above referred to,since the latter arrangement is dependent primarily upon' variation inthenumber oflloops transferred in the fashioned courses regardless ofthe frequency of the courses.

After the completion of the fashioned instep 21, the knitting of themain portion of the foot 28 may be continued from line E E as shown inFig. 1, and a fashioned toe 29 then formed to complete the stockingblank. Because there is a continuous selvage edge around the heela-'slngle seam may be employed from top to toe of the stocking. q a

In lieu of or in addition to fashioning the instep along tapering linesas previously explained, it is frequently found desirabl'e'to knitportions of the foot sole forwardly of the heel with a tighter stitchthen employed in the heel so that of the forward ends of the fashioninglines. This will be understood by reference to Figs. 5 to 7 hereafter tobe discussed.

The course frequency of narrowing in the instep area N in Fig. 2 is lessthan in the heel narrowing area N and edge FG therefore inclines to alesser degree than the bottom edge EF of the heel. Such instepfashioning may consist of ten narrowings at intervals of six suchsole'fabric the heel fabric, the heel fabric will have lesser elasticitythan and this regardless of whether is or is not more heavily reinforced than the sole fabric forwardlythereof.

In Fig. 2 I have diagrammatically illustrated the employment of tighterknit fabric in an area T beginning at transverse line MG at the forwardend of the instep fashioning. With such an arrangement the more tightlyknit fabric will begin at a point beneath the sole instep arch where thefoot is of relatively small diameter, and as indicated in Fig. 1 themore tightly knit fabric area T may continue forwardlyto the toe. Insome cases it may be preferable to knit the fabric with a tighter stitchstarting farther back, say at the beginning of LF in Fig. 2. In suchcase, however, care will have to be taken not to knit the sole fabricwith too tight a stitch in the area between lines LF and MG asotherwisedifhculty may be experienced in the fashioning ofthe instep fabric dueto the fact that it is more difiicultto transfer loops in tightly knitcourses than in loosely knit courses. 1

It should be mentioned that the lengthwise dimension of the widened backarea of the heel must be so proportioned that the heel area DE ofmaximum width will come at the apex of the human heel. Also, thelengthwise dimension together with the angle of narrowing along thelower part of the heel should be so correlated to the length andinclination ofthe heel back and the length of the apex area that a heelpocket of correct size and shape will be provided, in Fig. 2 the widenedback area CD is shown longer than the narrowed heel bottom EF, but ofsubstantial-' these latter proportions of the heel the instep asrepresented by line width of thestocking at the instep and the weight ofthe fabric employed.

In-Fig. 2 is shown a heel fashioned in the same shape as in Fig; 2", butwherein a double narrowing by loop transfer is effected through anarrowing operation similar to that employed in forming a diamond toe inconventional full fashioned stockings. In such view'the narrowing at theunder heel area N is carried out in a wide area as before, defined atits inner boundary by fashioning line KL, but between line KL and edgeEF is a further line of fashioning marks KL'. Between the latter lineand edge EF the loops at selected courses are transferred inwardly to anextent of two loops, whereas between fashioning lines K'L' and KL theloops are transferred inwardly to the extent of only a single loop. Theknitted wales in the latter area therefore extend angularly to the walesoutwardly of line K'L, which run parallel to edge EF, and also angularlyto the wales inwardly of line KL. This double narrowing in the heelprevents as abrupt change in the direction of maximum stretch so thatthere is less strain along fashioning line KL in the present embodimentthan in the case of a single fashioned area as in Fig. 2*. While in theembodiment shown the instep along the edge FG is fashioned by a singlenarrowing area defined by fashioning line LM, it will be understood thata double narrowing arrangement may be employed therein as well as in theheel.

A further modification in the narrowing fashioning is shown in Fig. 2.As previously explained, the heel fashioning should be carried out in arelatively wide area along the edge and the instep narrowing should becarried out in a relatively narrow area. Whereas in the previousembodiments the line of fashioning marks KL were directed parallel toedge EF and at an angle to the lineof fashioning marks LM in the instep,in the present embodiment the line of fashioning marks NO in the heeland OP in the instep form a single straight line, which is widely spacedfrom the edge of the heel at E and gradually converges towards the edgethroughout its length so as to be substantially more closely spaced tothe edge of the blank at G.

When the stocking is completed by seaming the opposite edges together,the same will be shaped approximately as shown in Fig. 5 when laid flat.The back. or upper, part of the heel between C and D will curvegradually rearwardly in an outward direction and then bend inwardly asit approaches D. Because of the wales added in the widening operation,the stocking will have adequate width in the apex area in the region ofD and E so that there is an adequate width of fabric across the widestportion of the heel and the high instep arch. The fashioning in thelower heel and instep causes the stocking to cup properly under thebottom of the heel and fit the smaller circumference of the foot at, andforwardly of, the instep area below the high part of the arch. Thearrows in Fig. 5 indicate the approximate directions of maximum fabricstretch of the stocking fabric resulting from fashioning throughwidening and narrowing'as herein explained. This may be furtherunderstood from Fig. 6 which shows the direction of wales of thestocking when on the foot, and from Figs. 7 and 8 which show theunderside of the heel and instep, and the back of the heel.

As will be seen from Fig. 5, the direction of maximum stretch from therear edge assumes a more upward inclination in a forwardly directionprogressively from the upper part of the heel' down to the front of theinstep. As the upper heel widens out, the direction of stretch is at anincreasing angle to the rear seam, due to widen- 5 ing by the additionof end loops at different course intervals at the several areas alongthe back. In the fashioned area at the bottom of the heel the directionof stretch is transversely because of the narrowing by loop transfer, sothat this area is ableto stretch to fit the heel and relieve the fabricacross the high instep arch and at the sides of the heel of unduestrain. The direction of stretch in the instep fashioned area is alsotransversely. By reason or the tapering of the instep fashioning linesthe stretch in a transverse direction at right angles to the sole seamdecreases gradually in a forward direction. At the same time the walesin the unfashioned area bordering the tapering fashioning lines LM 2otaper towards the seam so that the coursewise direction of stretch is inan inclined direction towards the low forward part of the top insteparch, as will be understood from the arrows in .Figs. 5 and '7. Withsuch an arrangement. when the stocking is worn, strains which mightotherwise be transmitted tothe high rear portion of the instep arch arereferred forwardly and may be absorbed in the fabric in thecircumferential area of smaller diameter across the lower portion of theinstep arch. It will be understood from Fig. 8 that whereas thedirection of maximum stretch at the rear of the heel inclines forwardlyand upwardly, the fabric is also stretchable lengthwise of the seam,which runs at a bias to the wales and courses of the widened fabric, sothat the stocking heel will accommodate itself to the contour of heelsof varying shape without creating undue stress across the instep arch.The

elasticity at the back of the heel is demonstrated by the fact that whenon the foot the fabric may be readily pulled away from the heel, anddoes not fit tightly in this area as is characteristically true of priorsingle unit stockings and many stockings made on legger and footermachines. The vertical component of elasticity at the back and bottom ofthe heel is extremely important in preventing undue tension when thefoot is bent and under the vertical pull created by garter fastenings,so as to prevent rupture of the fabric in these areas, and theelasticity of the selvage edges in th widened fabric at the back of theheel is also important for the same reason.

As indicated in outline in Fig. 1, the heel portions 26, the soleportions of the foot 28, and the toe 29 will incorporate heavier fabricthan employed in the leg. This is accomplished by knitting one or morereinforcing, or splicing, yarns simultaneously with the main body yarn.As above pointed out, it is desirable that in the widened portions ofthe heel, wherein the knitted wales and courses run angularly to theselvage edge between C and D, see Fig. 2 the edges and the adjoiningmarginal areas of the fabric should be elastic. To insure the desiredelasticity, it may be found desirable in many cases to knit the marginalarea along the selvage edges in the widened heel area with less than thetotal number of yarns employed in the fabric inwardly of the margins sothat the marginal knitted loops will be looser and capable of a greaterdegree of stretch than where the body yarn and th reinforcing yarn allextend to the edge. Such an arrangement is illustrated in Figs. 9 and10. Fig.

9 is lined to indicate courses. The main heel.

lighter fabric area through the entire body comprises reinforced fabric3| which is bordered by a. marginal area 32 of lighter and looser fabricalong the widened edge. This may be accomplished in the manner showninFig. which illustrates a widened fabric area of the heel according toFig. 3. The reinforced heel fabric 8! is shown as comprising a pluralityof yarns 33 and 34. One of such yarns, 34, is terminated a predetermineddistance inwardly from the edge so that the marginal area 32 is formedof loops comprising only yarn 35. In Fig. 10 yarn 3d terminates twoloops inwardly from the edge, but it will be understood that the showingis merely illustrative and that yarn 34 may be stopped farther inwardlyso as to leave three, four, or more loops composing a light fabricmargin along the widened selvage edge. Assuming that thereinforced heelis knit of a body yarn and a single splicing yarn, either thereinforcing yarn may be stopped inwardly of the edge and the body yarnemployed alone to form the marginal area 32, or the body yarn may bestopped inwardly of the edge and the reinforcing yarn employed in themarginal area. As will be hereafter pointed out, it may be desirable tomake the heel fabric heavier than reinforced sole portions of the foot,and for such purpose a plurality of reinforcing yarns may be employed inthe heel. In such event any one or more of the group comprising the bodyyarn and the several splicing yarns may be stopped inwardly of the edgeso as to give a along the margin, and it will be understood that I donot limit myself to the use of any particular yarn or yarns in knittingthe lighter marginal area. Referring again to Fig. 10, it will beobserved that as the fabric is widened by the addition of edge loops,the width of the reinforced fabric is creased.

In knitting the sole correspondingly inlight weight, although heavierthan that across the top of the foot. In knitting a single unit stockingsuch a splicing yarn will be ordinarily introduced on each side of theblank at the top of the heel sections 26 and continue down sole portionsof the wear at the heel, the resulting fabric will in many cases not befound sufficiently durable for the heel. Accordingly, it is proposed toutilize heavier fabric in the heel of the present single unit stockingthan in the foot sole, terminating the heavy reinforcement at a suitablepoint and continuing in the foot sole only with the lighter reinforcedfabric. If desirable, one or more heavy reinforcing yarns may beemployed, either with, or substitutedfor, the main body yarn in theheel, and thereafter a lighter splicing yarn employed preferably withthe body yarn, in forming the foot sole. It will be found mostconvenient, however, to knit a splicing yarn with the body yarnthroughout the heel and sole and use a further reinforcing yarn inaddition to the splicing yarn and the body yam in the heel area.

One such arrangement is illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12. Therein thereinforced fabric 35 is terminated at the front boundary of the heel,represented by the line F-F in both the fashioned area and adjoiningarea so that the instep portion 21 between lines F-F' and G G' comprisesthe same lighter fabric as the sole portions of the-foot. Preferably,the heavy reinforcing yarn will terminate .in spaced relation to theinner heel, instep sections 21, and foot 28. Because of the heavy 1reinforced fabric in wear is at the back of the heel consist of lighterfabric than the boundary-38 of the heel since a better appe ance will besecuredalong the boundary line than if the extra reinforced yarn and thesplicing yarn terminate at a common boundary. The inner boundary 3'! ofthe reinforcing yarn normally will be spaced three or more loops awayfrom the splicing yarn boundary 36.

In the embodiment of Figs. 13 and 1d the reinforced fabric 38 is carrieddownwardly to line EE, and is thereafter continued to the front lineF-F' of the heel only inwardly of the fashioning line KL so that themarginal fashioned area is of lighter fabric. Hence, the fashioned areawill be more stretchable, as well as having a different direction ofmaximum stretch, than the adjoining fabric inwardly of line ml- In Figs.15-and 16 the reinforced fabric 39 is continued not only through thefashioned and unfashioned portions of the heel as in the em bodiment ofFigs. 11 and 12, but is carried'on to the front line G-G' of the instep2i.

In the embodiment of Figs. 17 and 18, the

is again carried to the forward line G-G' of the-instep 21, but onlyinwardly of the fashioning line KL in the heel and fashioning line LM inthe instep. Hence, the entire fashioned area from line EE' down to lineG-G' will comprise lighter fabric as well as having a differentdirection of maximum stretch than the reinforced fabric inwardly oflines KL and LM.

It will, of course, be understood that the heavy reinforced fabric ofthe heel may be continued somewhat forwardly of line GG' of the instepto an intermediate point of the foot sole between the toe and theinstep. Again, since the main the reinforcement may be terminated at theline E-E' so that the-fashioned and inward areas in the narrowed portionof the heel and in the instep may upper portion of the heel.Stillfurther, the arrangement between lines E-E' and F-F' in Figs. 13and 14 may be reversed so that lighter fabric will be employed inwardlyof the heel fashioning line KL and reinforced fabric employed in thefashioned area outwardly of line KL. Similarly, in Figs. PI and 18 thefashioned area of the heel and instep outwardly of lines KL and LM maycomprise reinforced fabric, while the fabric inwardly of such fashioninglines may comprise lighter fabric.

It will be further understood that whereas in all of the embodiments ofFigs. 11 through 18 the reinforced heel fabric'is shown as extending tothe selvage edge in the widened upper portion of the heel, resort may behad to the arrangement shown in Figs. 9 and 10 wherein less than thetotal number of yarns are employed along the edge to provide a marginalarea of lighter fabric.

It will be evident that the various reinforced embodiments of the singleunit full fashioned stocking just described will differ from each otherwith respect to the circumferential stretchability in the areas of theheel and instep. One form may be found more satisfactory than anotherdepending on the shape in which the stocking is fashioned, the width ofthe" fashioned area at width and extent of the fash- ,t he heel thanduring sole portions.

fabric. Hence, to secure a tighter stitch than employed in the heel sothat the sole fabric in the area of the instep arch will be lesselastic-than the heel fabric. To accomplish this it will be evident thatthe knitting machine must'be adjusted to form longer loops in theknitting of the tighter heel is formed of heavier fabric than the sole,it would ordinarily follow that the heavier heel fabric would be lesselastic than the lighter sole the desired elasticity in the heel, and adifferential between the elasticity in the heel and the elasticity inthe sole, that is to secure greater elasticity in the heavy reinforcedfabric than in the light reinforced fabric, it is necessary to use asubstantially longer stitch during the knitting of the heel than duringthe knitting of the sole. This may be accomplished through suitableadjustment of the rocker arm of the knitting machine to shift the needlebank rearwardly towards the head a predetermined relatively longdistance during the formation of the heel, and a lesser formation of thesole. In this manner the sinkers will form longer loops in the heeldespite the fact that heavier yarn is employed in this area.

I am aware that various arrangements have been proposed for single unitfull fashioned stockings in the heel area, but to the best of myknowledge no stocking of this type wherein the heel is formed merelythrough widening and narrowing of the stocking blank has been proposedwhich had a heel pocket shaped to correctly fit the human foot. Themajor complaints against prior single unit stockings have been that theheel pocket was not correctly shaped and/or that the same was too small,and that the stocking across the heel and instep arch was ofinsufficient diameter. Tests of the stocking according to the presentinvention indicate that these objects are fully overcome. This is inpart due to the fact that the stocking is so fashioned that its shapeconforms to the shape of the human foot, and in' part also due to thefact that the fashioning is so carried out with due regard to the normaldirection of stretch of knitted fabric that regardless of and diameterof the foot the stretch of the fabric by reason of the particular mannerof fashioning is properly adjusted to conform thereto.

A single unit stocking incorporating the various features hereindisclosed may be made on a conventional legger machine.

Iclaim:

1. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking having fashioned heel sectionsincluding upper portions progressively widened by the addition of edgeloops and defined by-outwardly inclined back edges and progressivelynarrowed lower portions defined by inwardly inclined lower edges, saidback and lower edges being joined in a-common seam the widening alongone area of the upper heel portions being more abrupt than along anadjoining area of the upper heel portions so that the back edges in theseveral widened areas incline outwardly at different angles to the walesalong the edges, the coursewise direction of stretch of the knittedfabric along the seamed back edges inclining to the seam at differentangles in the several widened areas along the back edges.

2. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having heel sections which attheir back are widened by the addition of loops in progressive courses,the

Where, as above proposed, the

distance during the back edges being gradually inclined to the knittedfabric wales in the upper back area of the heel and being followed by anarea in which the edges are more sharply inclined to the knitted wales.

3. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking having heel sections which arewidened in progressive back heel areas in the direction of the bottomthe changing contour i courses, the widening of the heel by the additionof edge loops in recurrent courses and defined by back selvage edgeswhich meet the knitted fabric wales along the edges in the progressiveback heel areas at different angles.

4. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having fashioned heel sectionswith progressive widening at the back of the heel by the addition ofedge loops in progressive courses, the widening. in the upper part ofthe heel being gradual, and being followed by an area in which the edgesare more sharply inclined and wherein the widening occurs at morefrequentintervals.

5. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having heel sections which attheir back are widened by the addition of loops in progressive courses,the back edges being gradually inclined to the knitted fabric wales inthe upper back area of the heel and being followed by an area in whichthe edges are more sharply inclined to the knitted wales, and therebeing a further back area between said latter area and the point ofmaximum heel width wherein the edges are gradually inclined.

6. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having heel sections which attheir back are widened in progressive courses down to a straight-knitapex area and which are narrowed in progressive courses below the apexarea, the back edges being relatively sharply inclined outwardly for anarea of their length at the back of the heel, and there being a furtherarea between said latter area and the straight-knit apex area whereinthe back edges are inclined outwardly more gradually.

7. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having heel sections withwidening along the back edges by the addition of edge loops inprogressive in the upper area of the heel being gradual, and beingfollowed by an area in which the edges are more sharply inclined'andwherein the widening occurs at, more frequent intervals, and the secondarea being followed by a further area adjacent the widest part of theheel wherein the edges are less sharply inclined and the widening occursat lessvfrequent inter vals than in either the first or second areas.

8. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking having heel sections which attheir back. are widened in progressive courses,'the back edges being,

gradually inclined to the knitted fabric wales in the upper back area ofthe heel and being followed by an area in whichtheedges are more sharplyinclined to the knitted wales.

9. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking having heel sections which attheir back are widened in progressive courses, the back edges beinggradually inclined to the knitted fabric wales in the upper back area ofthe'heel and being followed by an area in which the edges are moresharply inclined to the knitted wales, and there being a further backarea between said latter area and the point of maximum heel widthwherein the edges are gradually inclined.

10. A full fashioned fiat-knit stockingincluding heel sections narrowedalong'their bottom edges by loop transferred fashioning areas, saidfashioning areas including two opposing spaced lines of fashioning marksextending along the ing integrally knit heel tially so, to the bottombottom edges and forming adjoining inner. and outer fashioningareas inwhich the knitted wales coursewise stretch in the fashioned areas.

12. A full fashioned fiat-knit ing fashioned instep sole sections havingtaperin fashioned areas along their bounded by lines of fashioning clineforwardly towards said edges.

13. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking including integral heel andinstep sole sections having sole sections adjacent the heel sectionshaving transferred loops extending along their bottom edges ofprogressively diwidth in a forward direction, and being bounded by linesof fashioning marks inclined to the bottom edges of the sections.

15. A full fashioned. flat-knit stocking havand instep sole sections,lines of narrowing fashioning marks extending along the bottom edges ofthe heel and instep sole sections, the lines of fashioning marks in theheel sectionsextending'parallel tothe bottom edges, and the lines offashioning marks in the instep sole sections edges and to the the heelsections.

16. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking formed as a single unit andincluding fashioned heel and instep sole sections having continuousselvage edges joined in a seam, the back portions of the heel beingwidened by the addition of end loops along the back edges in progressivecourses, the

fashioned areas of a lower portions of the heel sections and the instepsole sections having marginal narrowing fashioning areas of transferredloops defined by lines of fashioning marks extending in spaced relationalong the opposite sides of the bottom seam, the fashioning lines in theinstep sole sections being inclined to the fashioning lines in the lowerheel portions and being also inclined to the knitted wales of the instepfashioning areas.

17. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking as in claim 16 wherein thefashioning in the lower heel portions extend parallel, or substanseam,and the fashioning lines in the instep sole portions converge forwardlytowards the bottom seam.

18. A full fashioned fiat-knit Stocking including fashioned heelsections widened along their back edges and having fashioning stockinglncludbeing inclined to the bottom lines of fashioning marks in areasextending along their lower edges. lines of fashioning marks spacedinwardly from the lower edges and forming boundaries between themarginal fashioned areas and the inwardly ad- Joining heel areas.reinforced fabric in the heel sections, said reinforced fabric in thelower parts of the heel sections being confined to the areas on one sideof the fashioning lines and the areas on the other side of thefashioning lines comprising lighter fabric.

19. The method of stocking blank in a single operation which includesknitting the top, leg and ankle portions. continuing the knitting andforming heel projectionswith inclined selvage edges by adding end loopsat opposite sides of the blank in progressive the heel projectionsjection widened at more frequent course intervals to incline the edgesat a sharper inclination, thereafter narrowing the heel projections intheir lower portions, and knitting the stocking foot in tegral with thenarrowed lower heel portions.

20. The method of making a full fashioned operation according to claim19 wherein following the widening in the second part of the heelprojections the heel projections are widened in a third part at lessfrequent course intervals than in the second part.

21. The method of making a full fashioned stocking blank in a singleoperation which in-,

cludes knitting the top, leg and ankle portions, continuing the knittingand forming, heel projections with inclined selvage edges at oppositesides of the blank by adding end loops in progressive courses,thereafter narrowing the lower portion of the heel projections by theinward transfer at opposite sides of the blank of marginal groups ofloops in progressive courses and forming selvage edges in the narrowedlower heel portions continuous with selvage edges in the widened heelportions, knitting the stocking foot integral with the lower heelportionsandcontinuing the inward transfer of marginal groups of loops atopposite sides of the blank in progressivecourses of the instep soleareas forwardly of the narrowed lower heel portions, the narrowing inthe instep portions being eifected by groups of marginal loops whichprogressively change in number in progressive narrowing courses.

22. The method of making a full fashioned stocking blank in a singleoperation according to claim 21, wherein the instep portions is effectedin progressive narrowdimimshing marginal groups of 23. The method ofmaking a full fashioned stocking blank in a single operation accordingto claim 21, wherein the narrowing in the lower heel portions iseffected in progressive courses by the transfer of marginal groupscontaining the same number of loops, and the narrowing in the instepportions is'eifected in progressive courses by the transfer of marginalgroups of loops.

24. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking formed as a single unit inclu aheel pocket formed of complementary heel sections which areprogressively widened along their back edges to an apex andprogressively narrowed along their bottom edges .below the apex, and afoot portion comprising complementary sole-sections formed with theknitted wales thereof continuations of wales of the heel sections, the

making a. full fashioned transfer narrowing in theconstituting integral1'0 back and bottom edges of the heel sections and the edges of the footsole sections being continuous and joined in a common seam, the knittedcourses in the bottom of' tliggot sole extending transversely of saidseam, the heel pocket comprising relatively stretchable Elnforced fabricof loosely dapted shape of the ball of the heel, the foot sole forwardlyof the heel section in the region of the underside of the instep arch ofthe foot comprising less stretchable reinforced fabric of knittedcourses so tightly knit as tocause the sole to closely fit the insteparch and thereby reduce the tendency of the relatively stretchable heelpocket to slide lengthwise of the ball of the heel.

25. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking formed as a single unitincluding a heel pocket formed of complementary heel sections which arepro gressively widened along their back edges to an apex andprogressively narrowed along their bot-' tom edges below the apex, and afoot portion comprising complementary sole sections formed with theknitted wales thereof constituting integral continuations of wales ofthe heel sections, the back and bottom edges of the heel sections andthe edges of the foot sole sections being continuous and joined in acommon seam, the knitted courses in the bottom of the heel pocket and inthe foot sole extending transversely of said seam, the heel pocketcomprising relatively stretchable heavy reinforced fabric of looselyknit courses and being adapted to conform itself by stretching to theshape of the ball of the heel, the foot sole forwardly of the heelsection in the region of the underside of the instep arch of the footcomprising less stretchable knitted courses so tightly knit as to causethe sole to closely fit the instep arch and thereby reduce the tendencyof the relatively stretchable heel pocket to slide lengthwise of theball of the heel. I

26. A full fashioned flat-knit stocking formed as a single unitincluding a heel pocket formed of complementary heel sections which areprothe heel pocket and in.

knit courses and being v to conform itself by stretching to the formedof said body yarn and a plurality of spliclighter reinforced fabric ofgressively widened along their back edges to an apex and progressivelynarrowed along their bottom edges below the apex, and a foot portioncomprising complementary sole sections formed with the knitted walesthereof constituting in; ,tegral continuations of wales of the heelsections, the back and bottom edges of the heel sections and the edgesof the foot sole sections being continuous and joined in a common scam,the knitted courses in the bottom of the heel pocket and in the footsole extendingtransversely of said seam, the heel pocket comprisingrelatively stretchable reinforced fabric of loosely knit coursescomposed of main and splicing yarns and being adapted to conform itselfby stretching to the shape of the ball of the heel, the foot soleforwardly of the heel section in the region of the underside of theinstep arch of the foot comprising less stretchable lighter reinforcedfabric of knitted courses composed of main and splicing yarnscolectively lighter than the yarns in the heel pocket, said sole coursesbeing so tightly knit as to cause the sole to closely fit the insteparch and thereby reduce the tendency of the relatively stretchable heelpocket to slide lengthwise of the ball of the heel.

27. The method of making a full fashioned stocking in a single operationwhich includes knitting the top, leg and ankle portions, then formingheel sections composed of reinforced .fabric courses, said heel courses.being knit throughout their width witha long stitch so as to renderthereinforced heel sections easily stretchable, and during the knittingof the heel sections gradually widening the same for a distance to anapex and thereafter narrowing the same for a distance to form'the underportion of the heel, continuing the knitting after completing the heelsections to form sole sections integral with the heel sections andcomposed of reinforced fabric courses, and in knitting the sole sectionsforwardly of the heel sections in the region of thejunderside of theinstep arch of the foot reducing the size of the stitch so as to knitthe foot sole courses of tight stitches adapted to render the foot solesections in the instep area less stretchable than the fabric of the heelsections. v

28. The method of'making a full fashioned stocking in a single operationwhich includes knitting the top, leg and ankle portions with a bodyyarn, then forming heavily reinforced heel sections composed of knittedfabric courses ing yarns knit with a relatively loose stitch andrendering theheel sections capable of substan-' narrowing the same toform the lower portion of the heel, continuing theknitting aftercompleting the heel sections to form sole sections integral with theheel sections, but at a suitable point in the instep areaaftercompleting the heel sections, changing the stitch and eliminating one ofthe splicing yarns to form'tightly knit sole courses containing lessyarn than the heel courses so that the sole sections comprise lighterrein forced fabric more resistant to stretch than the heel sections.

29. A full fashioned fiat-knit stocking formed as a single unitincluding a heel pocket formed of complementary heel sections which areprogressively widened along theirback edges to an apex and progressivelynarrowed by loop transfer below the apex in marginal areas along theirbottom edges, said heel sections being composed of relatively heavy andrelatively stretchable loosely knit reinforced fabric adapted to conformitself by stretching to the shape of the ball of the heel, and a footportion comprising complemen tary sole sections constituting integralcontinuations of the heel sections, said sole sections being narrowed byloop transfer in marginal areas along their edges, 'the fashioning linesdefining the boundaries of the marginal instep fashioning areasinclining forwardly towards the edges, the sole sections in the insteparea thereof at least forwardly of the front end of the instepfashioning lines being composed of lighter reinforced and more tightlyknit fabric than the heel sections, the arrangement of the instepfashioning lines and the less stretchable fabric in the sole sectionscooperatingto cause the sole to closely fit the instep arch of the footand reduce the lengthwise of the heel.

JACOB a GOODMAN.

